Overview
To run the fridge, camp lights and charge devices when the car is not running, it is essential to get a secondary battery. This can be done by using a portable ‘battery box’ left int her back, and recharged at a GPO, or, you go for a more permanent solution by running dual batteries.
Essentially, Running a dual battery setup (secondary battery under the bonnet) requires a DCDC charger that floats power from the cars alternator from the main battery, then , when main car battery charge is full, divert power to the secondary battery. This is the battery that you want to power for all non-essential items.. otherwise, the prolonged draw would prevent you from starting your car.
DC/DC Battery Charger
Choosing a DC/DC , all I had to go on is that I needed a solar input. Most that I talked to said you can’t go past a Redarc BCDC1225D, but at $670 compared to the Projecta IDC25 at $400, I cheaped out. So what’s with BCDC opposed to DCDC? Redarc just branded their DCDC Chargers to confuse us.
After having the Projecta IDC25 for 3 years, I started to notice some wierd charging patterns .. some times the solar was working, sometimes not. Thinking that I needed to upgrade, I was advised by my auto elec, that it’s probably just running to hot.
From this, we purchased the mounting bracket (BCDCMB-003) which neatly sites in front of the radiator.
This keeping it cool. Have had no further issues in 2 years.
I figured, if / when the IDC25 claps out, I’d upgrade to the BCDC1225D.. In the meantime, I drilled a hole in the radiator protector guard so I could see the indicator lights.
note: does not do lithium batteries.. the IDC25X (newer model does)
Overall, the IDC25 seemed to get many reports of clapping out presuming to do with the heat.
Then I swapped out to IDC25X
Although, I’d planned and setup for the Redarc, in January 2024, I swapped out to the IDC25X.
Based on Projecta’s sales pitch, they had basically redesigned for under bonnet use.
If this does not give me 8 years, I won’t purtchase another bit of Projecta gear again..
That being said, the main reason I chose it was:
- Made for underbonnet use.
- Terminals for quick swap over from exiseting DCDC.
- it's Intelli-IQ system (sold separately) – essentially allowing an app to manage optional relays which I know will come in handy.. .
Battery
Theres no doubt I’d love to have gone with a lithium.. but gees are they still pricy.. and I would have needed to replace my DCDC...
Originally The best option I could run with / max size to fit in the available space under the bonnet was a 90AH AGM. There has been a lot of talk about not using AGM’s in the engine bay as the heat can make them deteriorate quicker. Speaking to the guys at Battery World, they advised the better quality batteries (can tell from the type of plastics used) have superior insulation..
Since swapping out the DCDC in January 2024, (and the occasional trickle charge as the vehicle is rarely used during the week), the battery is holding up great after 3 and a bit years. To aid in it's life the following was done:
- Added 'heat shield' around the battery
- Replaced solar panel
- Relocated DCDC to infront of the radiator and swapped out with IDC25X
- Changed the frige cut off to 'hi'
- Periodic reminders in calendar to check / use battery
The secondary battery is AGM Century 27X MF. Classed as a light commercial battery it runs 720 CCA.
Size: 305 L x 171 W x 202 H x 225 H (with terminals)
The crank (main) battery the car runs is Lead Acid YUASA N70ZZL MF.
Classed as a light commercial battery it runs 720 CCA.
Size: 302 L x 174 W x 200 H x 220 H (with terminals)
Power Distribution
I Have had a great deal of use with this little device. Power from the secondary battery runs under the vehicle and comes up beside the back seats into the rear cargo area. It then runs up the Kaon barrier into the cargo shelf. The distribution box connects via Anderson plug. The fridge simply plugs in to the Anderson plug port, and cargo door lights plug into the cig-socket. Having the USB ports us great for charging tables / phone etc. Its’ s a practical paring as it’s easy to store a tablet etc knowing it is always charged / stored in the cargo shelf.
Battery Monitors
The Fridge should cut off when the battery is running dangerously low. The DCDC should cut off power when the battery is low.. but I’ve never been convinced. I run two battery monitors, a small on in the cabin and a larger display in the rear.
Rear monitor - Projecta BM 320
Although the power distribution box on the shelf shows volts and amps being drawn, having a calculator advising of remaining power is a very handy thing to have when off for a few days.. it tells me I need to plug in the external solar blanket if there is too much shade etc.
See user manual
Parts / Supplier / Price
| Item | Supplier | Price |
|---|---|---|
|
DC/DC Projecta IDC25X | (self install swap over)) |
Repco | $565 |
|
DC/DC (old) Projecta IDC25 | Anderson Plug for solar | Relocation kit | Anderson Plug | Lamp Plug| Cable (6mm) | Conduit |
Autobarn | $399 |
|
DC/DC Mount Redarc BCDC Mounting Bracket to Suit Toyota Prado 150 | BCDCMB-003 |
Autobarn | $90 |
|
Fitting Fitting of kit + cable to back for fridge |
Autobarn Lawnton | $220 |
|
Second Battery 90AH | 27X MF CENTURY | AGM | sealed lead acid |
Battery World | $479 |
|
Battery Monitor (front) Projecta DBM100 | 12V Dual Battery Volt Meter |
Ebay | $129 |
|
Battery Monitor (rear) Projecta DBM320 | 12V Dual Battery Volt Meter |
Ebay | $274 |
|
Battery Monitors Install Install of battery monitor |
Pine Rivers Car Electrics | $180 |
|
Distribution Box Thunder TDR06013 | Anderson In | Anderson out | USB out x2 | 12v out x 2 |
4WD Industries | $200 |
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